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LINCOLN, Neb. — While the winter landscape sleeps in shades of gray and brown, gardeners dream in the colors of spring -- lush green foliage and the vibrant pinks, blues, oranges, yellows, and reds of blossoms.
It will be awhile before gardeners can dig in the dirt but already some gardening trends are emerging: landscape sustainability, native plants in home landscapes, container gardening, and increased interest in vegetable gardening. And this spring, just as in any other year, nurseries will sprout new varieties. 
One of the biggest trends is increasing interest in vegetable gardening, said Dale Lindgren, horticulturist at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln West Central Research and Extension Center in North Platte.
Last year, vegetable plant sales were up 10-15 percent and that trend is expected to continue. Vegetable gardening is becoming more appealing as people try to save money at the grocery store during these tough economic times. Some gardeners are focused on food safety and believe that food they grow themselves is safer, which is related to the burgeoning interest in organically grown food, Lindgren said.
"Last year, we got a lot of questions about local food, and I think we'll see that again," said Kim Todd, UNL landscape horticulture specialist and "Backyard Farmer" host. "There are a lot of people who want to grow at least a little bit of their own food, and more people are intrigued with edible woody plants such as apples and apricots."
In the last few years, interest in heirloom vegetables and flowers also is on the upswing. Old-fashioned flowers, such as hollyhocks, are receiving more attention because they don't require much water. Heirloom vegetables, particularly tomatoes, are grown for their flavor, Lindgren said.
Another trend is blended gardens, which include both edible ornamental vegetables and flowering plants. Vegetables such as colorful peppers and eggplant can provide visual pleasure as well as food. This can be a good option if garden space is limited, he said.
"One of the overall garden trends is landscape sustainability, which means the landscape is one that we can take care of without harming the environment," said Sarah Browning, UNL Extension ucaedtor.
A critical aspect of sustainability is planting species that are well-adapted to the climate and don't need a lot of supplemental watering. Native plants often are good options, she said.
The Retree Nebraska initiative is part of the larger returning trend of planting trees. "People are more aware of the impact of the simple act of planting a tree to conserve energy," Todd said.
Container gardening will be big.
"You can find big containers, small containers, containers in all kinds of shapes and materials," Todd said. "It (container gardening) is easy, it can be done near the house, and containers are easy to move around and change."
Both flowering plants and edible plants can work well in containers. "And if you feel really creative, you can use woody cut florals and other materials in your container after the growing season," she said.
Every gardening season has some "hot" plants. Plants with brightly colored foliage seem to be popular, as are smaller evergreens that can add an architectural element to the landscape, Todd said.
Another trend is the comeback of coleus. This started a few years ago but is continuing with new varieties that include new leaf shapes and colors. Many of the new varieties tolerate a lot more sun than the traditional shade-loving varieties, Browning said.
Interest in ornamental grasses continues. Shenandoah, a new switchgrass, has a compact shape and stays more upright than some other varieties. The leaves are green in spring, tipped dark red by mid-summer and entirely red and orange in fall.
Shrub roses continue to be popular because they require less maintenance than hybrid teas and there will be some new varieties. "They provide a lot of color and impact in the landscape but with low maintenance," Browning said.
A new shrub is the Endless Summer Twist and Shout hydrangea, Browning said. The reblooming lacecap, which has two kinds of blossoms, blooms in spring on old wood and again on new wood.
Also new is a dwarf butterfly bush, Blue Chip, which is part of the Lo & Behold series. It only grows about 2 feet tall so it will work well in containers and smaller landscapes, Browning said.
Lindgren, an internationally known penstemon breeder, developed Sweet Joanne penstemon, which had limited availability last year. It will be easier to find this year, he said.
He also has developed Heart's Desire dianthus, which will have limited availability in 2009.
While many gardeners, especially the more experienced ones, try something new each year, prepare for some disappointment. Sometimes, newer varieties are not as resistant to disease or pests or don't perform as well as older varieties, which have been tested more, Lindgren said.
Before starting a vegetable garden, work out your plan. A vegetable garden should do what you want it to, so ask yourself what your desired outcome is.
For example, to feed a family of four all year round, you will need to plan a vegetable garden that is about 100 sq meters (1076 sq ft) of growing area, not including paths.
And remember if you live in a cold climate, that will put the kybosh on growing all year round. So you may need to design a vegetable garden that is larger than normal and then make preserves.
Before starting a vegetable garden—where
do you live?
One of the best gardening design tips you should follow is to take into account your climate. Whether it's so hot your trowel melts, or so cold that you stub your toe on a clod of earth, climate can roughly be broken down into three basic categories when planning a vegetable garden... cold, temperate and tropical/sub-tropical.
Obviously there are many shades of climate in these categories and only you can determine exactly how where you live, fits into the mix. Here's our useful sowing guides for specific information on what vegetables will do well in your area, which is a great help when deciding on a vegetable garden plan.
Once you've decided what to grow and where in your vegetable garden layout, here's a host of links to information on this website to help you further:
* You need to identify a good quality source for your seeds. Order seeds well before your growing season starts, especially if you live in a cold zone with a short growing season.
* No Dig Gardens use organic gardening methods and it's often better to germinate your seeds separately, then plant up as seedlings.
* Use this germination guide to work out what kind of head start to give your plants. If you are planning big plantings of some things, consider staggering seed germination so they don't all mature at the same time.
* If you are living in a cold climate, or even a temperate one, it is worth considering starting seedlings indoors, using a cold frame or greenhouse, if the growing season is short or there is a danger of frost.
Garden design
What will grow where in your vegetable garden diagram?
Different plants have different needs so take that into consideration when planning your vegetable garden.
Plants like beans, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cauliflower, turnips, onions and peas grow best at temperatures between 10-20C (50-70F). These plants prefer a cooler time of the year to grow and will usually tolerate frost.
Vegetables like cabbage, carrots, radish, parsnip, leek, lettuce and celery have intermediate temperature requirements. They will grow best in temperatures between 15-25C (60-80F) and they can be fussy. Grow them out of season and they may run to seed without producing anything for your kitchen table.
Warm season vegetables grow best in temperatures above 20C (70F) and will die if exposed to frost. These include corn, capsicum, potato, tomato, eggplant, beans and all the vine crops. So make sure the majority of their growing season is in the warmer months.
The better you know what you want to grow, the more success you will have. Nurseries may try to sell you seedlings that are, frankly, out of season. Growing peas in the heat of summer will not see them produce at their best.
Some final gardening landscape tips...
* Protect your plants from harsh winds. Cold winds will stunt growth, hot winds will dry the soil and harm the plants, strong winds will break them. If you don't have a natural sunny protected corner in your garden, prepare a windbreak of garden lattice or slatted timber.
* Make sure your vegetable garden gets plenty of sunshine... at least 5 hours a day of direct sunlight.
* Make sure your taller plants don't block the sunlight for the smaller plants. Watch how the sun travels in your garden. In the northern hemisphere, consider planting your garden rows in a north to south position with the taller plants at the northern end. In the southern hemisphere, this is reversed with the taller plants at the southern end. This way, all the rows receive an equal amount of sunlight.
* If you are planning to plant successive crops, practice plant rotation. Different plants take different things out of the garden soil. This will also reduce the potential for a particular type of pest or disease to take hold in your garden. Keep replenishing your compost and mulch!
Water droplet
* Water, water, water! Vegetables need water to grow and lots of it. A drip water system is best to give the plants a good, deep soaking and to discourage leaf fungus. This will encourage root growth. Do NOT let your garden bed dry out. Your no dig garden will have good drainage anyway, so keep it moist and top it up with mulch to keep the moisture in.
By following these simple vegetable gardening tips, your no dig garden will be off to a flying start. Spend some time to work out what you will grow over the growing season that you have available to you. Then back-time the weeks you will need to grow your seedlings.
Vegetable Seedlings
And it really gets you in the mood to get the garden underway, especially in those cooler climates. (brr... you know where you are!)
Check out the Sowing guides, for information on growing vegetable seedlings based on your climate and hemisphere.
Backtime the date you think you'll be frost free and start your vegetable seedlings about 6 weeks earlier. Of course, you will have to start them off under cover or indoor, so this will guide you, Starting seedlings indoors.
How to germinate vegetable seeds
Vegetable seeds need a light, friable soil that will hold moisture to grow.
Seeds must absorb 40-60% of their weight in water to trigger germination. They also need air. When they sprout, they take up moisture from the film of water around the soil particles and they take up air from the space between those particles. So soil quality is important.
A good seed raising mixture could be the answer if you are unsure of the quality of your soil. Individual peat or plant fiber pots are a great invention because the whole thing goes into the ground without disturbing the roots of your baby plants.
Warmth is most important for germinating seeds. Most garden seeds will germinate if soil temperature is around 20C (68F). For colder climates seed beds must be kept warm either by having them in a sunny protected spot in or near the house (like a porch or garage, out of the elements) or in a glass or plastic covered cold frame.
Some seeds germinate faster than others. You should have some idea when to expect your seeds to sprout to gauge your success. For planning purposes, Here's a germination guide for popular vegetables.
For most vegetable seeds you can expect a germination time of 6-20 days. In another 4-5 weeks, those seedlings should be transplanted into your no dig garden bed.
Good vegetable gardeners learn from trial and error; better gardeners write it down; the best gardeners buy a ruled notebook and fill up the columns with a sow-by-sow account.
As one of the best gardeners, you'll pat yourself on the back each season as you ferret though your previous plant propagation records to see—clear as mud—exactly the dates seeds were sown; when they germinated; the success rate; time when ready for transplanting, and finally when you sat down to eat your carrot and swede mash.
The quality of the seeds you use will also have an impact on your success. For more information see seed products.
In a nutshell, you should be purchasing the best quality seeds you can afford. Otherwise, you will be wasting your time.
Care of your vegetable seedlings
Seeds must be kept moist but not wet until the seedlings emerge. This may take between 1-3 weeks, depending on the plant type. As they grow stronger, thorough but less frequent watering is required to encourage root growth.
They will need shade when young but should be increasingly exposed to the sun so they become used to conditions in the garden. Water in the morning rather than at night.
Aim to build your no dig garden about one week before you are ready to transplant. That will give it time to settle.
Transplanting vegetable seedlings
Mark where you plan to put each of your plants. Use a trowel to make a hole large enough to take the root system.
Gently prise out the vegetable seedling from their container taking as much of the soil as you can with it into the garden bed.
Firm the soil around the plant in its new position, cover the area with mulch and water in gently.
It is best to transplant seedlings in the late afternoon or evening to give the plants time to settle before being subjected to midday sun.
Building A No Dig Vegetable Garden
The No Dig Garden is built on top of the ground, so you can start building a vegetable garden anywhere. This is organic gardening at its simplest and best.
Building a vegetable garden of this sort is extremely attractive for those sites that have poor soil or invasive weeds. It's also a great way to build a garden for those that can't, or don't want to, dig a good size vegetable garden!
First thing of course, is to choose the site for building a garden. Make sure the site is level and gets at least 5 hours of sun a day.
If it's not reasonably level, smooth out the humps and bumps as best as possible, then fill the gaps and any lower edges with soil, sand or whatever organic material is at hand, such as bark, leaves, twigs, washed seaweed, paper, jute, wool carpet or similar. As this rots down, you will need to add more compost to these low areas and gradually build them up.
If the ground is on too much of a slope, build a terraced vegetable garden. You can make a grand affair with formal retaining walls, or just shore levels up with branches, bricks, planks, corrugated iron or other obtainable materials.
If you are planting a vegetable garden over lawn or weeds, you can mow the area to ground level and build the garden on top, or you can leave the vegetation to decay underneath in time — as long as you cut out light.
If you are planting your vegetable garden on a hard surface, such as hard clay, an old stony yard or driveway, put down some cushioning organic material first (as above, bark, leaves etc).
Starting to build a no dig garden
Begin with a newspaper layer of at least 5 pages — or 20 or so pages if you like (or cardboard, sacking, natural carpet etc) to at least 5mm (¼ inch) thick.It helps to surround the garden with some sort of border material. This can be bricks, logs, planks or rocks and can be 20-25cm high (8-10 inches) or more. A raised border contains the organic material within, discourages invasion of surrounding lawn or weeds, deters various people and critters, and means less back-bending.
Lay down a layer of pads of lucerne hay (sometimes called alfalfa) leaving no gaps, to a height of 10cm (4 inches). Layer some good organic fertilizer on top to a height of roughly 20mm (1 inch). This can be just about any sort of good quality material like well rotted chicken, horse, cow or sheep manure. If you don't have this sort of material available, sprinkle a layer of good natural commercial fertilizer. No need to go the full 1" depth with commercial material.
Add a thick layer of loose straw to the garden 20cm (8 inches) and another layer of fertilizer and then top it off with 10cm (4 inches) of compost.
Water the garden until it's wet but not soaking. You can now start planting your seedlings immediately for an instant garden!
Here's a diagram of the process when starting a vegetable garden the no dig way.
It will NOT look neat like this! You also do NOT have to have these exact layers, materials and quantities. Nature does not use a tape measure — use whatever you have at hand or can easily buy.
Building a vegetable garden like this (seriously messier than these pictures) can be achieved in a couple of hours if you have the materials on hand. Build several garden beds in different shapes to add interest and variety to your gardening.
No dig gardens are just the same as other gardens... just easier to build and maintain.
Here are some step-by-step photos of building a no dig garden using a slightly different approach.
Planting a vegetable garden
No dig gardens are more successful if you plant seedlings rather than seeds. The seeds can get lost in the mix and you are less certain about where everything will come up. With seedlings, you have a better idea of where things are. Also, with the rich organic materials in this sort of garden you can plant more intensively than you would with a normal garden.
What will do well? Beans, peas, capsicum, eggplant, tomato, lettuce, sweet corn, broccoli, spinach, cabbage, cauliflower, brussels sprouts and vine crops like melons and pumpkins. Root crops should not be tried until the bed is more mature.
Once your seedlings are in place, cover exposed areas with another layer of mulch. This can be straw, grass clippings or leaves. Try to keep the stems of your young plants clear of the mulch to discourage stem rot.
Does Size Matter?
Well, in all things, it does and it doesn't. It all depends on what you are trying to achieve. My view is it's best to start small when building a vegetable garden, and expand with your ambitions.
Some additional hints:
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Top 10 Remedies for the Green Thumb Blues
If you’ve killed enough plants in your time to fill a small forest, you’re not alone. The important thing is that you learn from your gardening mishaps and don’t decide to throw in the trowel just because you’ve had a few bad experiences. If, on the other hand, you’re still mystified by what went wrong, take a look at the top ten most common remedies for container plants in decline:
Rx #1 – Swamp Thing
More plants die from too much water than any other cause. While it may seem counter-intuitive to let plants dry out, it actually benefits plants by allowing oxygen to pass into the soil. So let your plants take in a breath of fresh air once in awhile. Also, when in doubt, check your plant’s roots for black or mushy tips, which are an indication of rot due to excess moisture.
Rx #2 – Life’s Tough in the Sahara
Try to avoid going to the opposite extreme and letting your plants dry out too much. Unless the plant you are growing is a cactus or succulent, it’s not going to appreciate being thrown into the desert, either. To help find the right balance between too wet and bone-dry, look into buying a moisture meter. These inexpensive little gadgets help take the guess work out of watering by telling you when the soil is approaching dryness, which is the right time to water.
Rx #3 – Who Turned Out the Lights?
All plants need light to survive. I bet you already knew that, but did you know that the most common reason plants don’t bloom is insufficient light? In general, low light plants enjoy bright conditions, but do not need any direct sun. Part sun or medium light plants do best with several hours of direct morning sun and some filtered afternoon sun (i.e. through a nearby tree or building). High light or full sun plants generally need at least four hours or more of direct mid-day or afternoon sun per day to do their best.
Rx #4 – Life’s a Beach Until You Get Sunburned
Believe it or not, plants can get sunburned, too! And, until someone invents a sunscreen lotion for plants, it’s important to avoid putting medium or low light plants in too much scalding afternoon sun. Different seasons can also mean fluctuations in light intensity, so while a plant might have been happy with a few hours of direct sun in the winter, it may actually be too much sun once the dog days of summer roll around. This is one advantage that plants in containers have over garden plants because you can move them around as the seasons change.
Rx #5 – I’m Starving Over Here!
Plants in containers need to be fed more often than plants in the garden. The reason for this is the more frequent waterings, which cause nutrients to leach out of the soil over time, leaving an impoverished soil. The solution is to feed all of your foliage plants about once a month during periods of growth. Blooming plants should be fed more often since they require more energy for flower production, about once every two weeks while in flower. The rest of the time, you can treat them like foliage plants.
Rx #6 – Time for a Little Spring Cleaning
The soil around a plant’s roots is its house, and just like the houses we live in, this one could use a little spring-cleaning once in awhile! A plant may live several years, possibly even decades, in the same potting soil. To keep that soil healthy, it’s important to revitalize it every year by scraping off the top inch or two of old soil and replacing it with fresh soil. This prevents salt build-up from fertilizers, aerates compacted soil, and, if you mix it with a little compost, adds nutrients back into the soil.
Rx #7 – One Size Does Not Fit All
Choosing the right container for your plant is almost as important as putting it in good soil. It’s usually a good idea to look at the plant’s roots before you decide to repot it. If the roots do not extend all the way down to the bottom of the soil line, it should be planted in a container that is the exact same size as the one you bought it in. If, on the other hand, the roots extend the full length of the soil and have started to circle the bottom of the pot, you should re-pot to one size larger than the container it came in. Anything bigger runs the risk of holding too much moisture (please refer to Remedy #1).
Rx #8 – Cleanliness Is Key
Prevent pest and disease problems from rearing their ugly little heads by practicing good hygiene. This means disinfecting your tools with rubbing alcohol or a bleach solution after each use, rinsing out old containers with soap and water, and throwing out potting soil if it was previously home to diseased plants, rather than re-using and possibly re-infecting your new plants. Most insect problems can be nipped in the bud if caught early on by spraying with a simple soap and water solution. Disease pathogens thrive in wet, hot, humid conditions, so simply allowing the soil to dry out slightly between waterings and not allowing water to stand on plant leaves can go a long way toward managing problems.
Rx #9 – Know Your Roots
It’s always a good idea to research a plant’s place of origin to see if your conditions will be a good match for it. For example, plants from woodland areas, like ferns and bleeding hearts, love shady, moist, humusy conditions resembling those found in their native environments. At the other extreme, plants from arid regions, such as many ornamental grasses and bulbs, prefer dry conditions and well drained soils. Many ailments can be avoided altogether by choosing the right plant for the right place from the beginning.
Rx #10 – Hey, Baby, What’s Your Zone?
Know which plants can survive in your region. Every plant has a minimum and maximum temperature range that it can survive in. Plants in containers tend to be more vulnerable to extreme temperatures, which is why it is always wise to buy plants that are hardy to at least one zone colder than the one you are in. For borderline plants, it’s a good idea to provide extra mulch or move them into an unheated garage in winter just to be safe.
It almost goes without saying that most roof gardens are hot, sunny, very dry places. I can't imagine why anyone with a roof garden would not want to install a drip irrigation system, especially since plants will need to be watered daily and sometimes even twice a day in the middle of summer. If, for example, you came home late just once and forgot to water the plants that day, you could find easily yourself with a collection of very dry and very dead plants the next day.
Installing a drip irrigation system will help protect the investment (financially and emotionally) you have in your plants by taking the time and guesswork out of watering by hand. Drip irrigation is the process of delivering precise amounts of water and nutrients directly to the plant's root zone, drop by drop. This system provides us with exact watering control and efficient use of limited water resources. Other water sprinkler systems do not use water as efficiently.
Drip irrigating first began in Israel, where dry desert conditions and a limited water supply created the need for an environmentally-friendly watering system to grow crops. Later, the process spread to the U.S., where it proved crucial in the dry, desert southwest or in landscape areas where traditional sprinklers have not proven effective, such as rooftop gardens, container gardens, and other small urban garden areas.
Farmers have been using drip systems since the 1960s, when they first discovered they could actually increase yields while lowering water use.
Why Drip Makes sense
- Saves time on watering by hand every day
- Reduces stress on plants, resulting in healthier plants overall
- Doesn’t waste water because water goes directly to the roots and can be set on a timer to the exact amount needed
- Can cut water waste by as much as 50%
- The slow, regular, and uniform application of water produces robust, consistent plant growth
Most systems are set to run on a timer that turns the system on and off. To gauge the correct watering frequency, you will want to observe how long it takes for the top inch of soil to dry out and set the timer to come on at intervals that will allow this slight drying to occure between each watering cycle. For most sunny gardens, you would probably set the timer to come on once a day in summer and every other day in spring and fall except during rainy periods when it can be shut off
System Maintenance
Initial Adjustments – The first time you run the system, experiment with durations between 15-30 minutes per cycle to see how long it takes for water to come out the drainage holes on all containers. The goal is to completely saturate the roots of every plant in the system. A good rule of thumb would be to time how long it takes for water to come out the drainage holes of the largest plant in the coverage area and set your timer for that length of time.
Seasonal Variations – Adjust watering frequency to account for seasonal temperature fluctuations. Turn system off when it rains or get a rain sensor that will shut the system off automatically for you.
Winterizing – Remove the stopper or crimp from the end of the line and flush out the tubing with plain water first. Then, drain system of all water and disengage from faucet. Bring timer in.
Spring Start-Up – Re-attach timer, replace batteries, stop up the end of the line too allow pressure to build in your line and start again as you did at initial set-up.
Flower Gardening
“In my garden there is a large place for sentiment. My garden of flowers is also my garden of thoughts and dreams. The thoughts grow as freely as the flowers, and the dreams are as beautiful.” - Abram L. Urban
A home flower garden is above all a place to create and dream. It is also a place to play, to work hard, and to rest, contemplating what human beings and nature can create by working together.
No matter the size of the garden plot you have to work with, your time and budget constraints, or your personality, you can design a flower garden that allows you to expressive your creativity, to get closer to nature, and to further enjoy being human.
Planning and setting up a flower garden may initially seem like a daunting task, but learning a few basics will set you firmly on the path to joy and beauty.
Flower Gardening Methods: How to Get Closer to Nature
“Gardening is any way that humans and nature come together with the intent of creating beauty.” - Tina James, 1999
There are two basic kinds of gardening methods. Unfortunately, the most common gardening done today uses chemical fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides. These chemicals over the long run destroy helpful soil organisms and throw flowers and other plants out of their natural balance. This system of gardening focuses on treating plant diseases and pests without strengthening the plant’s immune system and is harmful to the environment. Sadly, today it is practiced by most commercial gardeners and farmers.
The other method is organic gardening, which works to create a natural balance in your flower garden. This approach considers your garden as a living ecosystem, and uses the laws of nature to produce healthy plants that are resistant to diseases and pests. Organic gardening focuses on building up the soil, using plants wisely, and maintaining an ideal balance. Organic gardeners recognize that pathogens attack weak plants that live in poor soil. An abundance of soil organisms, from earthworms to fungi, provide needed nutrients to plant roots and keep your flowers healthy.
Organic gardeners also understand that some plants grown together will benefit the entire garden-ecosystem. Roses and garlic are a classic example and are discussed in detail in the book Roses Love Garlic, by Louise Riotte. Likewise, some plants grown together may actually create problems for overall garden health. This concept is called " companion planting."
We recognize that organic gardening is closest to nature and is beneficial to the environment and to your family. For this reason, it is the method that we’ll focus on in this website. If you are looking for a good source of organic fertilizers, organic pest control products, and quality gardening tools, we recommend Clean Air Gardening.
Using ultra thin-but-tough nitrile gardening gloves let you feel what you're doing while weeding, thinning, pruning, even picking up individual seeds.
Considering Your Region: Looking to Nature’s Garden
“None can have a healthy love for flowers unless he loves the wild ones.” - Forbes Watson
When you begin thinking about planting a new flower garden or expanding your current flower garden, you can look to the natural landscapes of your region for ideas. Wherever you live, there exists a diversity of micro-climates and eco-zones to explore. Next time you take a drive or a walk in the country, pay close attention. Depending on where you live, grassy plains may give way to rolling hills which turn into steep, rugged mountains. The edges of streams and creeks near your home also have unique, “riparian” ecosystems. Each of theses areas represents a unique community of plants working together in harmony.
It’s important not only to pay attention to the individual plants, but how they interact. Note the way larger plants provide shade for low-lying plants. What other relationships do you observe? Study these landscapes and take notes.
While the natural scenery that surrounds us is a work of nature created over hundreds of years by environmental conditions, gardens are our immediate creative expressions using the raw ingredients of trees, plants, soil, rocks, etc. Nature has worked hard to find a balance of soil, climate, plants, insects and animals. For this reason, we can look to the native plants of our state for inspiration. If we plant a flower garden primarily of natives in thoughtful combinations, we will inevitably create a more harmonious and carefree garden. Using natives, your flower garden can also read like a picture book of the natural history of your region, blending the open spaces around your city or town with your created landscape. You will also attract birds and beneficial insects and your garden will become an extension of the natural world that surrounds you.
The Nature of Natives: Deciding Which Flowers to Plant
“We learn from our gardens to deal with the most urgent question of the time: How much is enough?” –Wendell Berry
Native plant species can form the basic template for our garden design. However, it is important to remember that the natural landscapes that surround us are dynamic. Climates change and ecosystems shift. Throughout time, humans and animals have introduced non-native plants and they have naturalized to our area to become common sights.
With this in mind, how do we define what a native plant is? This is a very complex topic worthy of a long discussion. To get a basic idea, we recommend reading plant identification books and other references specific to your area. These books will help you find plants that professional botanists consider native and which are relative newcomers. This government website can also help you explore the idea of native flower gardening (link is to a PDF file).
As far as your flower garden is concerned, you can be as strict as you wish when planting your garden and using natives. There are many non-natives that are very adaptable and will fit in very well with natives without disrupting local plant communities. The key is to find a combination that works for you while being environmentally responsible.
You don’t have to give up your favorite ornamental non-natives, but be aware that many exotic species can be aggressive and disruptive in your garden and out-compete natives. Many exotics are weedy and aggressive simply because their natural predators are not present in their new environment. The more you educate yourself about the natural history of your state, the better. The North American Native Plant Society maintains an excellent website.
Planning: Flower Garden Ideas with Nature in Mind
“Who would have thought it possible that a tiny little flower could preoccupy a person so completely that there simply wasn't room for any other thought....” - Sophie Scholl
Once again, the best lessons for planning your flower garden come from nature. Take the time to closely observe relationships in local plant communities and you will learn a great deal. Also, it’s good to familiarize yourself with the different forms of plants that exist in nature and how they grow. In this website we’ve arranged information that will introduce you to the basics of perennials, annuals, bulbs, vines, etc. Read over this information briefly to get yourself further acquainted with the wonders of the plant world.
As soon as you’ve read this information and you’ve got a good picture of what’s out there in your natural landscapes, write down your observations and start thinking about plants and plant combination's you’d like to try in your flower garden. Next, consider issues such as your available space, and your time and budget constraints.
It may be useful for you to start looking at flowers in nurseries to see what they have in stock. We recommend shopping at your local family-run nurseries that specialize in native plants. They are generally more helpful and knowledgeable than the big chain nurseries and can assist you in choosing specific plants and give you tips on planting and maintenance.
You may also chat with other gardeners where you live about what has worked for them. Visiting their gardens will also generate new ideas. Local extension agents are another source of information and most now have web-based services.
Next, consider that a flower garden should appeal to all five senses. Picture the flower colors you’d like and the color combination's you think might go well with your home and your yard. Also reflect on the texture of the flowers and plants, as well as their heights. You should plan your garden in three strata: trees, shrubs, and ground covers. Think about the smells you’d like to have in your garden, and perhaps choose a few plants that also provide edible fruits. Also think about the possibilities of raised beds, borders, walkways, benches, trellises, and other peripherals. Clean Air Gardening is one site that sells containers or planters for gardening that might be helpful.
If you have recently moved to a new home and are planning your garden, it may be better to wait a year before planting a large, elaborate flower garden. This way, you can observe the amount of sun and shade, temperatures, soil conditions, etc. that you’re working with. Also, if you’re relatively new to gardening, you’ll probably want to start small your first year to see what works and what doesn’t. You can add to your garden each year as you discover nature’s secrets.
Flower Garden Specifics: Map it Out
“Just living is not enough ... One must have sunshine, freedom, and a little flower.” - Hans Christian Anderson
Now it’s time to determine the size of the plot you’re going to plant and to make a rough sketch of your property in relation to the plot. If you like, you can buy drafting paper and draw your map to scale so that it is more accurate. Color pencils are great for making maps so buy a set. Tracing paper is also a useful tool so you can make different layers of trees, plants, grasses, etc. and experiment before making your final drawing.
As you make your sketch, don’t forget to map out utility poles, faucets, existing plants and trees, sidewalks, etc. If you’ve done a good job of watching the sun and shade patterns of your yard, you can map these out as well. Make note of seasonal changes in sun and shade with different colors. If you’re interested in blocking out the wind with shrubs, draw in the direction of prevailing winds with arrows and indicate the season as well. Other factors to include in your map are slopes or hills, gullies, areas of special interest such as nice views you want to preserve, etc. The Garden Composer computer program might be helpful if you have a large and complex area to plan.
All this information you’ve compiled can now serve as your base map. Now you can begin the exciting process of defining your vision for your flower garden.
Flowers and Design: Working with Nature
“The Earth laughs in flowers.” - Ralph Waldo Emerson
As different flowers come out at different times of year, you should think about the time you want your flowers to bloom and for how long. You can have them bloom all at the same time, or you can stagger them throughout the growing season so your flower garden evolves through time.
This is a wonderfully creative element to flower gardening. Imagine seeing your spring flower garden emerge in blues and purples with grape hyacinth and lilacs and then evolve to a rainbow of colors as your Four O’clocks come out later in the year. Read up on the flowers you want to use to familiarize yourself with their flowering times.
Another fantastic part of planning your flower garden is that you can actually set up thematic sections in yard. Consider these themes for your gardens: Butterfly Garden, Bird Garden, Wildlife Garden, Rose Garden, Perennial Garden, Shade Garden, Succulent Garden, or Water Garden, among others. This U.S. Department of Agriculture has great tips on adding unique and ecologically-minded themes and features to your flower gardens.
Now that you’ve got your base map and you’ve got a set of ideas and tools to work with, you can map out which plants you wish to place in your yard. There are no hard and fast rules when drawing your design, but in general it’s best to draw large shapes for themes such as “shade garden” and use symbols for more specific features such as an individual tree or a bird bath. You should draw in the shapes of trees and shrubs as if they were their mature sizes, not their planting size. This technique will help you visualize your mature garden and reduce crowding.
When you have finished making your design, you can actually map it out in your yard. Place string, pegs, rocks, or other markers to outline the shape of the garden plot. Outline the shapes of the various plant concentrations. You might even want to lay out colored paper or something similar to represent the flowers and other plants. Mapping your garden accurately will give you a good idea of how it will look when it is done, and what effect it will have on the appearance of your house and the rest of the yard.
You can consider purchasing several samples of each of the flowers you are thinking of using and placing them in the appropriate locations in your mapped-out flower garden. You can take back the ones that aren’t quite right and purchase others. You will eventually find the perfect flowers and other plants for your garden. After you have a good idea what your garden will look like, you’ll need to prepare your soil for planting.
Preparing Your Flower Garden for Planting: Here Comes the Digging!
“My green thumb came only as a result of the mistakes I made while learning to see things from the plant's point of view.” - H. Fred Ale
Soil Basics for Flower Gardening
Soil is often divided into various categories, such as clay, sand, silt, and loam, although there are actually an infinite number of soil varieties because soil compositions can vary widely in organic matter, large and small rocks, minerals, pH, and other factors.
Most gardeners consider soil that has a combination of sand, silt, clay, and organic matter to be good soil. Measuring the pH of your soil is also a good indicator of how your flowers will perform and will help you determine if you need to make changes to the soil composition. Here is a terrific little electronic soil testing tool that can tell you how your soil is doing quickly and easily.
pH and Flower Gardening
pH is a scale used to measure the concentration of hydrogen ions in a solution. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14. Acidic substances have smaller pH numbers and more hydrogen ions. Alkaline substances have larger pH numbers and fewer hydrogen ions. 0 is extremely acid; 7 is neutral; and 14 is extremely alkaline. Limestone is an example of a very alkaline mineral. Sulfur is an example of a very acidic mineral. Note that arid regions tend to have alkaline soils and regions with heavy rainfall tend to have acidic soils.
Although the pH scale only has a 0 to 14 range, it is a logarithmic scale that is designed to measure vast differences. Think of the Ritcher Scale of earthquake magnitude as another example of a logarithmic scale. For example, a pH of 7 is neutral, but a pH of 6 is ten times more acid than a neutral 7. A pH of 5 is a hundred times more acid than a neutral 7, and a pH of 4 is a thousand times more acid than a neutral 7. Likewise, a pH of 8 is ten times more alkaline than a neutral 7. A pH of 9 is a hundred times more alkaline than a neutral 7, and a pH of 10 is a thousand times more alkaline than a neutral 7.
Testing Your Soil pH
To test your soil, it is a good idea to dig out samples from several places to see what the soil is like. Soil that hasn’t been worked is seldom ready for new plantings. It may have too much clay, too much sand, tons of rocks, very little organic material, a high or low pH, or other issues that you’ll need to deal with before you plant.
A good way to test the texture of your soil is with the “Ribbon Test.” After you take a soil sample, roll it back and forth in your hand. If it sticks together easily, it is high in clay, if it simply falls apart, it is probably has a lot of sand. Clay soils don’t drain well and are difficult for the roots to penetrate. Sandy soils drain well but don’t retain nutrients. Adding organic material will help both sandy and clay soils
You can test the pH of your soil with a simple pH testing kit. A good quality pH test kit is worth the extra expense because inexpensive ones are often inaccurate. The most accurate way to test the overall health of your soil is with a Garden Soil Testing Kit. These kits are relatively inexpensive and come in various styles. You can even buy an electronic soil tester that will also test the pH, as well as fertility, how much light you are getting, and other aspects for effective flower gardening.
The Magic of Compost for Successful Flower Gardening
If your soil is extremely acid, which can happen in an area with heavy rainfall, or with soil that has had overdoses of chemical N-P-K fertilizer, you may need to add limestone to ‘sweeten’ the soil.
Adding compost can also work wonders if your soil is out of the ideal pH range. This technique will also improve soil that is too sandy, has too much clay, or is low in the organic material that plants need to thrive. If you don’t know much about composting, don’t worry. You can find more information on composting at the Compost Guide.
Soil drainage is also critical to flower gardening. Mixing in compost is the best way to improve drainage. You can also try digging out a good quantity of the soil, around 16 inches deep, and placing a layer of fine gravel at the bottom.
Mulch and Flower Gardening
If you don’t have humus available from well composted material, you can help your garden through mulching. Mulching is nature’s way of composting. Forests provide a good example of nature’s mulching and composting system.
Forests are a complex growing community. Everything in a forest is related and works together. Leaves and dead branches fall from trees and other forest plants. Bacteria, fungi, nematodes, earthworms, and other habitants of the soil help break down the leaves and other debris into humus.
Humus is a natural living environment that benefits tree and plant roots.
To reproduce the mulch that forests naturally create, you can use garden waste from your home, such as shredded leaves, hay, shredded bark, or other similar substance. By spreading the material over the top of your garden dirt, you are mimicking the decomposing leaves and branches that make up a forest floor.
Mulching helps to keep weeds from growing and facilitates moisture retention in the soil. Mulching also begins the process of natural composting. Between treatments, soil organisms help to decompose the mulch that is closest to the ground. Earthworms and other critters that live in the soil pull composted material into the ground and naturally feed your plant’s roots.
You should add a little more mulch each year to your flower garden to keep the process going. You can use mulch even when your soil is in excellent shape. The mulch will keep the soil healthy and productive. You can further support your soil by adding a dose of organic fertilizer. Your mulch will work best when you add this natural fertilizer over the entire garden bed so that the whole area will gradually become healthier.
You can also go here for more information on mulching.
Flower Planting Tips: Off to the Right Start
“There is no spot of ground, however arid, bare or ugly, that cannot be tamed into such a state as may give an impression of beauty and delight.”- Gertrude Jekyll
-- Make sure you’ve got healthy soil with plenty of organic material and an appropriate pH level.
-- It is best to plant your flowers, trees and shrubs on a cool or cloudy day to minimize the stress of transplanting. Planting in the early morning or late afternoon also helps.
-- Most flowers should be planted in the spring. Some plants can be planted during other times of the year. Ask your local nurseries for planting tips on the specific plants you want to use.
-- Dig a hole in your freshly worked soil. Put the soil aside to fill the hole back in later. The diameter should be about twice the diameter of the root ball but the same height as the root ball.
-- Take out the plant from its container, and gently work you hand over the root ball to stimulate the roots. For trees and shrubs, remove any wires, burlap, etc. from the root ball after taking your plant out of the container.
-- Place the plant in the hole. Make sure it’s positioned at the correct soil line. It’s very important to place the roots at the proper level so that the plant’s roots aren’t exposed and the foliage of low-lying plants doesn’t get too wet. Some plants such as strawberries are subject to rot if their foliage is planted so that it remains wet.
-- Fill the hole about half full with the original soil.
-- Gently pack the soil to remove any trapped air.
-- Give the plant a good drink.
-- Top off the hole with soil, pack it again, and water one more time.
-- You can build up a small berm of soil in the shape of a circle around the hole so that your watering is more effective.
-- Cover the base of the plant with a good mulch. You can use recycled garden materials such as leaves, bark, nut shells, hay, grass clippings, etc. See here for information on mulching.
-- After planting, follow the watering instructions appropriate to your plant. Keep your plants well watered for the first year until they establish a good root system.
Annuals
There are many varieties of annuals available at nurseries. Annuals are plants that complete their whole life cycle in one growing season. In other words, they sprout, grow to maturity, bloom, drop seeds, and die in one season. The next season, the seeds sprout and begin the cycle again. Marigolds and Zinnias are examples of annuals that tend to grow well in warm climates. Sweet alyssums and nasturtiums prefer cooler weather.
Some annuals drop enough seed so that they will behave like perennials and reliably grow back in the spring. Others need to be replaced each spring as their seeds are not as hardy. Snapdragons and Cosmos tend produce a large quantity of seeds that will survive through the winter and produce new plants the following growing season.
Many perennials grown in regions with extreme winters can be considered annuals because they will die back due to the hard frosts in the fall. We refer to these perennials as “tender perennials.” Examples of tender perennials are impatiens and lantana. If you use tender perennials in containers, you can move them indoors so they will live through the winter.
Biennial plants complete their life cycle in two growing seasons. The first season is focused on growing roots and leaves. Rosette foliage (leaves that surround the stem close to the ground) often carry biennials through the winter. In the second year, biennials grow flowers, which then turn to seed. The plant dies and the seeds will begin the cycle again in the next growing season.
Forget-me-nots, foxgloves, pansies, and violas are examples of biennials.
When you go to your local nursery, be aware that some perennials are often treated as biennials because after their second year they may look worn out and shabby, but will continue to grow.
An example of this kind of biennial is the wallflower.
Perennials
Perennials are plants that live for three or more years. By the broadest definition, they include flowers, shrubs, trees, etc. and can sometimes live for hundreds of years. Most perennial flowers are referred to as “herbaceous perennials” because they lack woody stems. Trees and shrubs are referred to as “woody perennials” because they do have woody stems and/or trunks.
The tops of herbaceous perennials often die in the fall, but the roots survive the winter and send up new growth during the spring. Some herbaceous perennials grow rosette foliage (small leaves that grow along the base of the plant, similar to what biennials grow) after the stems die off.
Perennials can be further divided into evergreen and deciduous. Perennials that keep their foliage all year round are evergreen perennials. Decidouous perennials will lose their foliage during the fall or winter and grow it back during the spring.
Flower perennials sometimes bloom for only two or three weeks, although their leaves remain until winter sets in. While most flower perennials prefer cooler weather, some live happily in hot, humid, summer climates. Asters, chrysanthemums, and daisies are examples of flower perennials. Some perennial flowers start to look worn and tired after about 4 years so you should consider replacing them. Visit this University of Illinois website for a large list of common perennials flowers and some nice photos.
Bulbs
The true definition of a bulb can be a bit tricky. A bulb is technically any plant that stores nutrient reserves underground in some part of its anatomy. True bulbs, corms, tubers, tuberous roots, and rhizomes are usually all lumped into the category of 'bulb.'
Although they have differences, they are all basically underground reproductive structures that are capable of creating a whole new plant. Bulbs and bulb-like plants are usually perennials. Many bulbs prefer cold climates, but some, such as bamboo, prefer warm climates.
True bulbs have visible storage rings when cut in half. True bulbs can be sub-divided into tunicate bulbs and imbricate bulbs. Tunicate bulbs have a paper-like cover that protects the nutrient storage area. Imbricate bulbs lack this protective cover. Examples of tunicate bulbs are tulips, hyacinths, and daffodils. Lilies are an example of an imbricate bulb.
Corms are defined as an engorged stem base that serves to store nutrients. Corms have a basal plate from where the roots develop at the bottom on the corm. They also have a papery cover (tunic) like tunicate bulbs. Examples of corms are crocuses, gladiolas, and tuberous begonias.
Tubers are similar to corms but they do not have a papery covering or a basal plate. The roots develop out of small buds located around the tuber. Examples of tubers are anemones, caladiums, and oxalis. Potatoes, sweet potatoes, and the plant know in Mexico and Central America as “Yuca” are other examples of tubers. Yuca goes by the names “Manioc” and “Cassava” in other parts of the world.
Tuberous Roots actually store nutrients in their roots rather than in a swollen stem. Dahlias and tuberous-rooted begonia are considered tuberous roots.
Rhizomes tend to grow underground horizontally. These horizontal growths can pop out of the soil and form new plants. For this reason, many varieties of rhizomes are very invasive. Be careful when choosing plants that grow with rhizomes and where you plant them. Examples of rhizomes are lily-of-the-valleys, bamboos, and grasses.
Ornamental Grasses
Ornamental grasses come in many varieties and can be another way to add character to your garden. There are lots of colors of ornamental grasses including blues and reds, and many have showy flower spikes.
Grasses can be divided into two main groups, warm season and cool season grasses. Cool season grasses will begin putting on new growth in the spring and can tolerate the temperature fluctuations that often occur during this time of year.
Warm season grasses need more stable temperatures and can grow well under hotter and drier conditions. During the summer, cool season grasses may require more water than warm season grasses and may need to be divided frequently to keep them healthy. You can cut warm season grasses back to about 5 inches in the spring to remove the dead growth from the previous season. Warm season grasses generally require less division than cool season grasses.
Additionally, ornamental grasses grow by either forming clumps or by spreading through rhizomes. Clumping grasses are not a risk for your flower garden as they will grow slowly and are easy to trim back and maintain neat and clean.
Spreading grasses are best planted in an area where they can be controlled by landscape features such as sidewalks, brick separators, containers, etc. Spreading grasses can quickly take over the area where they are planted, so make sure you are careful about your choices and where your plant them.
Attractive ornamental grasses include Pennisetum Fountain Grasses, Japanese Blood Grass, Blue Fescue, Maiden Grass, Blue Lymegrass, and Prairie Dropseed.
Groundcovers are those plants you use in your garden to cover a large area. They are usually low-lying and fast growing. Some groundcovers such as Junipers can grow quite tall. There are literally hundreds of kinds of groundcovers you can use in your flower garden.
Groundcovers include grasses, spurges, succulents, vines, and herbs, among other kinds of plants. You can choose to plant annuals or perennial groundcovers and well as evergreen or deciduous. Some groundcovers can be quite woody, others more herbaceous.
Groundcovers can serve many purposes in your landscaping or flower garden. They can help to set apart certain areas of your garden, accenting different colors and softening others. If you have landscaping features such as stepping stones or bricks, groundcovers such as thyme can fill in the spaces between the steps and help bring out their colors. They are also very useful for retaining soil moisture, controlling weeds, and preventing erosion.
Basil Basil, the common name for Ocimum basilicum, is a popular sweet herb of the Mint Family esteemed for flavoring and formerly used for medicinal purposes. An annual of the tropics, it is tender and should not be attempted outdoors until the weather is warm. |   |
Although basil will grow best outdoors, it can be easily grown indoors in a container or hydroponic planter and, like most herbs, will do best on a south-facing windowsill (in the Northern Hemisphere). It should be kept away from any drafts, and must have plenty of sunlight, therefore a greenhouse or cold frame is ideal if available.
Basil plants whose leaves have wilted from lack of water will normally recover if they are watered thoroughly and immediately placed in a sunny location.
Basil can also be propagated very reliably from cuttings.
Leaf production slows or stops on any stem which flowers, so you should pinch off any flower stems to keep the plant in production, or pinch off some stems while leaving others to bloom for decoration or seeds. Once you do let the plant flower, it will produce seed pods containing small black seeds which you can save and plant the following year. Picking the leaves off the plant helps promote continuouse growth, largely because the plant responds by converting pairs of leaflets next to the topmost leaves into new stems.
Growing Cultures
Outdoors, containers (sow direct in final pots, or in plugs and later transplant to final pots), hydroponics. Nighttime temperature must not go below 10°C.
Plant Height
Basil usually grows to a height of 12 to 18 inches (30 - 45cm).
Plant Spacing
Basil plants should be spaced between 9 and 12 inches (22 and 30 cm) apart.
Preferred pH Range
Basil will grow in a very wide pH range between 5.1 (strongly acidic) and 8.5 (alkaline) with a preferred range of 5.5 (strongly acidic) to 6.5 (mildly acidic).
Propagation
Sow seed indoors before last frost or direct sow outdoors after last frost. Basil is easily propagated through herbaceous stem cuttings.
Seed Germination Period
5 to 10 days.
Seeds Per Gram (Approximate)
500 - 1000.
Soil Requirements
Well drained, average to rich soil.
Alternative Growing Media
Soilless potting mixes, perlite, vermiculite, rockwool, coco peat, Oasis foam.
Time From Seed to Saleable Plant
Seeds to finished plugs, 8 weeks; plugs to saleable plants, 5 weeks.
Sun & Lighting Requirements
Basil grown outdoors prefers full sun.
Basil will grow indoors satisfactorily under standard fluorescent lamps, and exceptionally well under high output fluorescent , compact fluorescent, or high intensity discharge (metal halide or high pressure sodium) plant growing lights. Keep standard fluorescent lamps between 2 and 4 inches from the tops of the plants, high output and compact fluorescents approximately one foot above the plants, and HID lights between 2 and 4 feet above the plants, depending on wattage. Have an oscillating fan gently stir seedlings for at least 2 hours per day to stimulate shorter, sturdier, and more natural plant habit.
USDA Hardiness
Annual. Not applicable.
Water Requirements
Water on a regular schedule, taking care to not overwater.
Potential Pests & Diseases
Whitefly, thrips, aphids. Fusarium.
Special Notes
Basil is known to attract bees, butterflies or birds and has aromatic foliage.
Catnip
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Growing Catnip
Catnip grows best in full sun combined with average, well drained soil. It grows well in hydroponics as well. It is a perennial herb of the mint family that will grow from 3-5 feet tall. Water them regularly. Cut out last years spent stems in early spring, which creates room for new ones. Cutting the plants completely down after the first bloom set will allow enough time for the plant to completely regrow and bloom again.
Plant Height
Catnip grows to a height of 3 to 4 feet (90 - 120cm).
Plant Spacing
Catnip plants should be spaced between 15 and 18 inches (38 and 45 cm) apart.
Preferred Soil pH Range
Catnip will grow in a relatively wide pH range between 6.1 (mildly acidic) and 7.8 (mildly alkaline).
Propagation
From seed. Start seeds indoors before last frost.
Soil Requirements
Well drained, average soil.
Alternative Growing Media
Soilless potting mixes, perlite, vermiculite, rockwool, coco peat, Oasis foam.
Time From Seed to Saleable Plant
Sow in plugs or seedflats 12 to 15 weeks before sale. Seeds to finished plugs, 8 to 10 weeks; plugs to saleable plants, 3 to 5 weeks.
Sun & Lighting Requirements
Catnip grown outdoors prefers full sun but will tolerate some shade.
Chives will grow indoors satisfactorily under standard fluorescent lamps, and exceptionally well under high output fluorescent , compact fluorescent, or high intensity discharge (metal halide or high pressure sodium) plant growing lights. Keep standard fluorescent lamps between 2 and 4 inches from the tops of the plants, high output and compact fluorescents approximately one foot above the plants, and HID lights between 2 and 4 feet above the plants, depending on wattage. Have an oscillating fan gently stir seedlings for at least 2 hours per day to stimulate shorter, sturdier, and more natural plant habit.
USDA Hardiness
Zones 3a through 9b.
Water Requirements
Water on a regular schedule, taking care to not overwater.
Potential Pests & Diseases
Whitefly, spider mites. Minimal disease issues.
Special Notes
Catnip may be considered a noxious weed or invasive plant in some areas. Catnip is known to attract bees, butterflies or birds and has fragrant blossoms. Catnip self-sows freely; remove flowers (deadhead) if you do not want volunteer seedlings the following season.
German An erect annual (Matricaria recutita), with small, daisylike flowers, is used to make chamomile tea and posessing a number of medicinal qualities. |   |
Growing Cultures
Outdoors, containers, landscaping, mass plantings. German chamomile not recommended for containers.
Plant Height
Chamomile grows to a height of 20 to 30 inches (50 - 70cm).
Plant Spacing
Chamomile plants should be spaced 6 inches (15 cm) apart.
Preferred pH Range
Chamomile will grow in a relatively wide pH range between 5.6 (acidic) and 7.5 (neutral).
Propagation
From seed. Direct sow in spring or fall. Fall sown seeds germinate following spring. Seeds need light to germinate.
Seed Germination Period
7 to 14 days.
Seeds Per Gram (Approximate)
10,000 to 18.000.
Soil Requirements
Well drained, poor to average soil.
Alternative Growing Media
Soilless potting mixes, perlite, vermiculite, rockwool, coco peat, Oasis foam.
Time From Seed to Saleable Plant
Seeds to finished plugs, 6 weeks; plugs to saleable plants, 6 to 6 weeks.
Sun & Lighting Requirements
Chamomile grown outdoors prefers full sun but will tolerate some shade.
Chives will grow indoors satisfactorily under standard fluorescent lamps, and exceptionally well under high output fluorescent , compact fluorescent, or high intensity discharge (metal halide or high pressure sodium) plant growing lights. Keep standard fluorescent lamps between 2 and 4 inches from the tops of the plants, high output and compact fluorescents approximately one foot above the plants, and HID lights between 2 and 4 feet above the plants, depending on wattage. Have an oscillating fan gently stir seedlings for at least 2 hours per day to stimulate shorter, sturdier, and more natural plant habit.
USDA Hardiness
Annual.
Water Requirements
Water on a regular schedule, taking care to not overwater.
Potential Pests & Diseases
Aphids, mealybug. Minimal disease issues.
Special Notes
Chamomile may be considered a noxious weed or invasive plant in some areas. Chamomile is known to attract bees, butterflies or birds and has fragrant blossoms. Chamomile self-sows freely; remove flowers (deadhead) if you do not want volunteer seedlings the following season.
Chives A perennial, hardy species of onion (Allium schoenoprasum), whose small, slender, hollow leaves, chopped fine, are used for flavoring salads, stews and soups. Handled like onions, the small oval bulbs multiply rapidly, form clumps, develop abundant foliage 6 to 8 inches high and small round heads of tiny lavender flowers. |   |
Preferred pH Range
Chives will grow in a relatively wide pH range between 6.1 (mildly acidic) and 7.8 (mildly alkaline).
Propagation
From seed. Start seeds indoors six weeks before planting outdoors. By division, leaving about a half a dozen small bulbs in a clump which will develop nicely into a full size plant.
Seed Germination Period
15 to 21 days.
Seeds Per Gram (Approximate)
Between 200 and 750.
Soil Requirements
Well drained, fertile and rich in humus.
Alternative Growing Media
Soilless potting mixes, perlite, vermiculite, rockwool, coco peat, Oasis foam.
Time From Seed to Saleable Plant
Seeds to finished plugs, 12 to 16 weeks; plugs to saleable plants, 11 weeks.
Sun & Lighting Requirements
Chives grown outdoors prefer full sun.
Chives will grow indoors satisfactorily under standard fluorescent lamps, and exceptionally well under high output fluorescent , compact fluorescent, or high intensity discharge (metal halide or high pressure sodium) plant growing lights. Keep standard fluorescent lamps between 2 and 4 inches from the tops of the plants, high output and compact fluorescents approximately one foot above the plants, and HID lights between 2 and 4 feet above the plants, depending on wattage. Have an oscillating fan gently stir seedlings for at least 2 hours per day to stimulate shorter, sturdier, and more natural plant habit.
USDA Hardiness
Zones 3a to 9b.
Water Requirements
Water on a regular schedule, taking care to not overwater.
Potential Pests & Diseases
Aphids, thrips. Minimal disease issues.
Special Notes
Chives are known to attract bees and repel deer.
Cilantro An annual or biennial herb (Coriandrun sativum), of the Parsley Family, grown for it's aromatic seeds which are used for flavoring liquors and confections. The plants, which grow about 2 feet high, are cultivated in rows about 18 inches apart, generally from seed sown in early spring. The seed heads which ripen about midsummer are gathered and dried, then beaten with light rods or flails to spearate the seeds.
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Growing Cilantro / Coriander
Growing Cultures
Outdoors, containers (sow directly in pots, do not transplant as root disturbance causes early bolting), hydroponics.
Plant Height
Cilantro / Coriander grows to a height of 18 to 24 inches (45 - 60cm).
Plant Spacing
Cilantro / Coriander plants should be spaced 9 to 12 inches (22 - 30cm) apart.
Preferred pH Range
Cilantro / Coriander will grow in a relatively wide pH range between 6.1 (mildly acidic) and 7.8 (mildly alkaline) with a preferred range between 6.5 and 7.5.
Propagation
From seed. Direct sow outdoors after last frost. Start seeds indoors six weeks before planting outdoors.
Seed Germination Period
7 to 10 days.
Seeds Per Gram (Approximate)
Between 110 and 150.
Soil Requirements
Deep, fertile, light or heavy, but well-draining.
Alternative Growing Media
Soilless potting mixes, perlite, vermiculite, rockwool, coco peat, Oasis foam.
Time From Seed to Saleable Plant
Six weeks.
Sun & Lighting Requirements
Cilantro / Coriander grown outdoors for Coriander seed prefers full sun. Cilantro / Coriander grown outdoors for leaves can tolerate some shade.
Cilantro / Coriander will grow indoors satisfactorily under standard fluorescent lamps, and exceptionally well under high output fluorescent , compact fluorescent, or high intensity discharge (metal halide or high pressure sodium) plant growing lights. Keep standard fluorescent lamps between 2 and 4 inches from the tops of the plants, high output and compact fluorescents approximately one foot above the plants, and HID lights between 2 and 4 feet above the plants, depending on wattage. Have an oscillating fan gently stir seedlings for at least 2 hours per day to stimulate shorter, sturdier, and more natural plant habit.
USDA Hardiness
Annual.
Water Requirements
Water on a regular schedule, do not overwater.
Potential Pests & Diseases
Aphids, thrips, mites, & whitefly. Minimal disease issues.
Special Notes
Cilantro / Coriander is known to attract bees, butterflies or birds, has fragrant blossoms and aromatic foliage. Cilantro / Coriander self-sows freely; remove flowers (deadhead) if you do not want volunteer seedlings the following season.
Dill leaves can be snipped and frozen in ziplock bags. Dill vinegar can be prepared by soaking a few leaves in vinegar for 4 or 5 days. Dill leaves are excellent when chopped and used in soups, salads, cottage cheese, roasted potatoes, and many other dishes. Dill is also used extensively in Europe to flavor cakes and other pastries.
It propagates well by seed, but can also be propagated by root and crown division. The seed can also be planted late in fall. When well established, thin plants to stand 8 to 12 inches apart in the row. Plants can also be started indoors and transplanted to the field when 3 or 4 inches tall.
Then they are transplanted not less than 2 feet asunder in permanent quarters in dry, light, limy, friable soil and full sunlight. In such a location they thrive best, develop the maximum fragrance and are least likely to be injured in winter. In wet soils, they grow but poorly; in rich soils, they become lush and sappy, and in both types they lack fragrance and easily succumb to frost.
Growing
In zone 7, it can be harvested at least until the end of November. It is moderately shade-tolerant, much more so than most herbs. In dry climates, it grows best in partial shade.
Wild Marjoram is thought to smell more like thyme but will grow well even in poor soil. Although it's leaves are used to flavor some dishes, most chefs do not consider Wild Marjoram as useful as Sweet Marjoram in the kitchen. Wild Marjoram is easily started by seed or root division.
Orange spots on the backs of mint leaves are caused by a rust which can be controlled by using an organic garden dust. Pests can be controlled with rotenone.
Oregano appreciates being hoed regularly and neighboring weeds should be kept under control. Mulching with hay helps keep plants clean outdoors. Oregano lends itself well to container and hydroponic methods of cultivation.
Growing Parsley
Rosemary grows well with occasional watering, and does much better where the soil is alkaline. All varieties prefer full sun and most can tolerate slightly shady areas. Growing Rosemary
Sage is easily propagated through stem cuttings, which are easily rooted in sand and other rooting media and then planted in rows three feet apart. Growing Sage
Tarragon propagates best through root division, planting the divisions at least 18 inches apart. Since tarragon has a shallow root system, care must be taken not to damage the roots when weeding, and special care must be shown during the winter after transplanting, as the root systems will not have developed fully. Growing Tarragon
Thyme propagates easily from tip cuttings or crown division. Since it grows slowly, especially early in it's life, weed-control is essential. Mulching with straw is helpful. Growing Thyme
It is also easily grown indoors in individual pots that are placed in a tray of water. Start plants with seed by sowing lightly in pots filled with a mix of garden soil, limestone, and organic compost. Keep moist at all times, keeping the plants in a partially shaded area. As soon as seedlings are large enough to move, in April or May ideally, they can be transplanted to stream or creek banks where they will establish themselves and create a bed that will provide cut watercress every spring and fall. Growing Cultures Outdoors, containers, hydroponics. Plant Height Watercress plants grow to a height of 6 to 24 inches (15 - 60cm). Plant Spacing Watercress plants should be spaced 9 to 12 inches (22 - 30cm) apart. Preferred pH Range Watercress will grow in a pH range between 6.0 (mildly acidic) and 7.5 (mildly alkaline) with a preferred pH range between 6.5 and 7.5. Propagation Sow watercress seed indoors in sunny location or under plant grow lights six weeks before last frost. Watercress propagates well through stem cuttings. Seed Germination Period 7 to 14 days. Seeds Per Gram (Approximate) 5,000. Soil Requirements Rich, fertile. Alternative Growing Media Soilless potting mixes, perlite, vermiculite, rockwool, coco peat, Oasis foam. Time From Seed to Saleable Plant Unknown. Sun & Lighting Requirements Watercress grown outdoors prefers full sun but tolerates some shade. Watercress will grow indoors satisfactorily under standard fluorescent lamps, and exceptionally well under high output fluorescent , compact fluorescent, or high intensity discharge (metal halide or high pressure sodium) plant growing lights. Keep standard fluorescent lamps between 2 and 4 inches from the tops of the plants, high output and compact fluorescents approximately one foot above the plants, and HID lights between 2 and 4 feet above the plants, depending on wattage. Have an oscillating fan gently stir seedlings for at least 2 hours per day to stimulate shorter, sturdier, and more natural plant habit. USDA Hardiness 9a to 11. Water Requirements Above average water needs. Suitable for bogs and watergardens. Thrives in hydroponics. Potential Pests & Diseases Whitefly, spider mites. Minimal disease issues. Special Notes Grown for aromatic foliage. Requires large amounts of water.
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